This is one of the most depressing things I’ve read in a long time. The anchovy is overfished and is now on the list of fishes that we should avoid eating. I love anchovies. I put it in pasta, salads, pizza. I am one of those people who, when faced with a dining companion who is pulling the anchovies out of his salad or pizza, says, “Can I have those?”

Chef Rowley Leigh’s heart is broken. He says: The anchovy cannot be replaced.